You can’t help but see history when you walk the streets of Ajalpan, Mexico. It’s literally ingrained into every home and every wall. Unlike in the United States, where new structures rise daily, here in Mexico people build around or add to what already exists—because the old structures are that strong. The city itself has stood for centuries, older than my mother’s mother’s mother. Like most Mexican towns, Ajalpan is rich in history, architecture, and wall art.

We took a walk through this town, just an hour from the Oaxaca state border and about two hours from Veracruz. It’s surrounded by mountains and semi-arid desert dotted with vegetation. At the heart of the city stands a grand historical church, a landmark that has anchored the community for generations. Most of the people here are Indigenous, their families rooted in this land for centuries, shaping a close-knit community where traditions run deep.

When we arrived, my family drew curious stares. To my knowledge, they weren’t unkind, just inquisitive—because we don’t quite “fit in.” Even though Veracruz is nearby, you don’t see many people of African descent passing through these parts. My husband, though a native Spanish speaker, stands out too. He is of Indigenous descent from Chile, but his Castilian accent and phrasing reveal his background immediately. My children resemble some of the Afro-Mexican families of Veracruz, yet their accents mark them as outsiders as well. In a way, while we were learning about the city, the city was also learning about us.

And everywhere we turned, the wall art seemed to speak. Like in so many Mexican cities, it is breathtaking in its intricacy. The murals here in Ajalpan weave together history, pride, and resilience. They tell stories of peoples who lived and thrived here long before this land was called Mexico. Each home feels layered with generations of architecture, each wall another canvas carrying forward memory and meaning. Families live in houses their ancestors built, and perhaps that’s why you don’t see as many new homes rising here the way you do in the United States. These structures were built to last—and with them, the culture endures.